Other scientific names: Paratilapia frontosa, Pelmatochromis frontosus
Cyphotilapia frontosa, or the Humphead Cichlid Zebra, also known as the Queen of Tanganyika, belongs to the Cichlidae family. In common parlance, it is often called Frontosa Blue, which is a Russian pronunciation of the English trade name “Blue Zaire Mikula”.
- Required aquarium volume
- 800 L
- Size in aquarium
- 22 – 25 cm
- Temperature
- 23 – 27 °C
- Temperament
- Semi-peaceful (dangerous to smaller ones)
Description
Adults can reach a length of 25 cm. This species has a prominent hump on its forehead, which is much more pronounced in males. Other external differences between the sexes are subtle. The body coloration is characterized by broad dark vertical stripes on a light background, and the fins and tail can be blue or dark blue.
Habitat
The species is endemic to the African Lake Tanganyika, where it inhabits the northern part of the water body. Frontosas prefer deep-water areas at depths of 20 to 60 meters or more, staying in rocky biotopes with an abundance of boulders and crevices. In nature, the water in these places is characterized by high hardness, alkaline reaction (pH 8.0–9.0), and high parameter stability, which is due to the significant depth of their habitat.
Behavior and Compatibility
It is recommended to keep these fish in groups of at least 6–10 individuals. Within the group, relationships are built on the dominance of one or two alpha males, who have the right to mate with females. Their attitude towards other species depends entirely on their size. Fish of similar size are not threatened, while smaller species may be eaten.
Care and Maintenance
For a group of 6–10 fish, a spacious aquarium of 800–1000 liters will be required. For decoration, it is sufficient to use a substrate of sand or gravel, as well as piles of stones and rock formations. From these materials, shelters in the form of caves and grottoes are formed. Simple ceramic pots, tipped on their side, or various decorative objects will also serve as shelters. Lighting should be subdued, imitating the natural conditions in the water column. The presence of aquatic plants is not required. Given the size of the fish and their diet, it is important to pay special attention to water quality and its hydrochemical composition. In addition to weekly water changes of 20–25% of the volume, it is necessary to install a powerful filtration system and regularly clean the substrate from organic waste.
Diet
The species is a carnivorous predator. In the wild, its diet consists of small fish, invertebrates, mollusks, as well as algae, which are consumed when prey is eaten from rocks and stones. In an aquarium environment, it is recommended to offer high-quality foods such as live or frozen brine shrimp, mosquito larvae, shrimp and mussel meat. Additionally, vegetable supplements, such as spirulina flakes, should be included. The use of live small fish for feeding is not mandatory. Specialized foods from some manufacturers, developed for predatory cichlids of Lakes Malawi and Tanganyika, are available for sale and can be an excellent alternative.
Breeding and Reproduction
Male frontosas are polygamous, so they should be kept with at least 3–4 females. When the breeding season arrives and there is a suitable cave-like shelter in the aquarium, the female lays several dozen large eggs. After fertilization, she collects the eggs in her mouth. For the next 35–50 days, the eggs, and then the fry, remain in the female's mouth until they reach a certain size, after which they begin to swim independently. During this period, the fry feed inside the female's mouth on micro-food that she ingests. If a cave or grotto is absent, spawning can occur directly on the open substrate, but this deprives the female of shelter and can lead to harassment by the male and other fish.
Diseases
Inappropriate keeping conditions and poor-quality food are the main causes of most diseases in Lake Tanganyika cichlids, often leading to ailments such as African bloat. Upon detecting the first symptoms, it is extremely important to check water parameters and ensure the absence of high concentrations of ammonia, nitrites, nitrates, and other dangerous substances. If necessary, all parameters should be normalized, and only then should treatment begin. More detailed information on symptoms and treatment methods is presented in the section “Diseases of Aquarium Fish.”
How to choose
When selecting individuals, attention should be paid to the purity of coloration: dark stripes should be clearly defined, and light areas of the body should not have a gray or cloudy film, which often indicates stress or poor health. Fish should be active, have clear eyes without cloudiness, and breathe evenly. Specimens with signs of emaciation, sunken bellies, or skin damage should be avoided. It is recommended to acquire young individuals from the same group, as adult fish adapt to new conditions with more difficulty.
Frequently asked questions
The essentials: size, tank volume, water parameters and care
How big does Queen of Tanganyika get?
An adult reaches 22–25 cm in length. Plan the tank around the maximum size: the fish quickly outgrows a cramped setup.
What size aquarium does Queen of Tanganyika need?
The minimum recommended volume is 800 L. A smaller tank speeds up nitrate build-up and raises stress levels.
What water parameters does Queen of Tanganyika need?
Temperature 23–27 °C, pH 8–9, hardness 10–25 dGH. Stability matters more than exact values: sudden swings are harder on the fish than a small deviation from the ideal.
How long does Queen of Tanganyika live?
Around 20 years when kept properly. Lifespan depends directly on tank volume, water quality and a varied diet.
Is Queen of Tanganyika aggressive?
Temperament: semi-peaceful (dangerous to smaller ones). Keep this in mind when choosing tank mates.
How many Queen of Tanganyika should be kept together?
Recommended setup: group (8–10 individuals). Ignoring this is a common cause of stress and disease.
What does Queen of Tanganyika eat?
Diet type: mixed diet (meat + plant-based). Feed small portions that are finished within a couple of minutes — overfeeding does more harm than underfeeding.
What is the scientific name of Queen of Tanganyika?
The scientific name of the species is Cyphotilapia frontosa, family Cichlids (Cichlidae). It also appears in the literature as: Paratilapia frontosa, Pelmatochromis frontosus.
