Scarlet Badis

Adult males can reach up to 3 cm in length and are distinguished by well-developed fins. A characteristic black spot can usually be observed on their dorsal fin. Females are generally slightly smaller, not exceeding 2 cm; they have shorter fins and a less robust build. The coloration of both sexes is uniformly reddish.

This fish is native to Southeast Asia. It is considered an endemic species, found exclusively in limited sections of the Irrawaddy River system, located in Kachin State, Myanmar. Its preferred habitats are stagnant, swampy waters rich in dense aquatic vegetation and with soft substrates. Kachin State stands out as one of the world's largest biodiversity hotspots, home to numerous endemic species. However, it should be noted that significant areas have already suffered from illegal logging.

Males display competitive behavior, vying for territory and the attention of females. For this reason, in a small aquarium, it is recommended to keep only one male with one or more females. Otherwise, the Scarlet Badis exhibits a peaceful disposition and successfully coexists with other species of comparable size, such as Rasboras or Danios. However, to avoid aggression, it should not be kept with close relatives, such as Badis scarlet or Chameleon Badis.

For a group of 3–4 fish, the optimal aquarium volume starts from 40 liters. For decor, it is preferable to use a soft substrate and create zones with dense plant thickets, including floating species. Natural driftwood and certain tree leaves can be an excellent addition to the design. When keeping multiple males, it is important to ensure spatial separation. Since each male will occupy a territory of approximately 20×20 cm, it is advisable to provide shelters in the center of each such zone and leave open areas between territories. Although the Scarlet Badis originates from tropical latitudes, a comfortable water temperature for it is within 15–25°C, which allows it to be kept even in unheated aquariums. pH levels should be acidic with low water hardness. In their natural environment, these fish feed on insect larvae, small crustaceans, and other zooplankton. In the aquarium, they should be offered similar foods, such as live or frozen brine shrimp and daphnia. In rare cases, they can be accustomed to dry foods. It is highly undesirable to feed bloodworms, as they cause obesity, which, in turn, makes the fish vulnerable to various diseases due to digestive problems.

In their natural environment, these individuals feed on insect larvae, small crustaceans, and other zooplankton. When kept in an aquarium, it is important to provide them with similar nutrition, offering, for example, live or frozen brine shrimp or daphnia. Sometimes they can be accustomed to dry foods, although this is uncommon. Feeding bloodworms should be avoided, as it promotes obesity, making the fish susceptible to various ailments due to digestive disorders. Breeding is quite feasible even in a community tank. Spawning usually begins at a temperature of about 24–25°C, which is close to the upper limit of comfortable values. As the breeding period approaches, the male actively attracts the female, inviting her to the center of his territory. Typically, the female attaches the eggs to the underside of a large leaf, after which her role in the process ends. The male continues to guard the clutch until the fry emerge. The incubation period lasts approximately 2–3 days. The hatched fry remain in place for about a week, consuming the reserves of their yolk sac, and only then do they begin to swim freely in search of food. As a first food for the fry, microscopic infusoria should be used, then they can be offered brine shrimp nauplii or special suspensions/powders designed for feeding aquarium fish fry. Due to their specific dietary needs, it is more rational to raise the fry in a separate tank rather than in a community aquarium.

Breeding is quite feasible even in a community tank. It has been observed that spawning begins at temperatures close to the maximum permissible values — 24–25°C. When the breeding season arrives, the male actively courts the female, inviting her to the center of his territory. Typically, the female lays her eggs, attaching them to the underside of a large leaf, after which her participation in the breeding process concludes. The male remains near the clutch, guarding it from intrusions, until the fry emerge. The incubation period usually lasts 2–3 days. The hatched fry remain in place for about a week, feeding on the remnants of their yolk sac, and only then begin to swim freely in search of food. As a first food for the fry, microscopic infusoria are suitable, followed by brine shrimp nauplii, or specialized liquid or powdered foods for young aquarium fish. Given their specific diet, it is more advisable to raise the fry in a separate tank rather than in a community aquarium. Sources: flowgrow.de, fishbase.se

Fish of this species are sensitive to water quality and sudden changes in its parameters, which can lead to a weakened immune system and the development of secondary bacterial infections. The main preventive measures are maintaining a stable environment, regular partial water changes, and avoiding overfeeding, which quickly spoils water in small volumes. In poor keeping conditions, fin and skin damage are possible, requiring improved aquarium hygiene.

When purchasing, choose active individuals with clean fins and no visible body damage. It is important to pay attention to behavior: healthy fish show curiosity, even if they are naturally timid. Avoid specimens with signs of emaciation, sunken bellies, or uncharacteristic spots on their scales. It is advisable to acquire fish from sellers who can confirm that the individuals are already accustomed to eating frozen foods, as transitioning to an unfamiliar diet can cause stress and refusal to eat.