White Tetra

This small fish, characterized by a rather high body, grows only up to 5 cm in length. Its fins are significantly larger than those of previous forms, and the bred veil-tail varieties can even compete with goldfish in their beauty. Its coloration is predominantly light, sometimes appearing transparent. Occasionally, vertical stripes can be seen on the front part of the body.

The differences between male and female White Tetras are noticeable in the shape and size of their fins. In males, the dorsal fin is pointed, and the anal fin has an uneven height: it is elongated near the belly and becomes lower closer to the tail. In females, the anal fin (the “skirt”) is symmetrical, and their belly is also larger.

This species was bred by humans and does not occur in natural conditions. White Tetra breeding is actively conducted in both commercial hatcheries and home aquariums.

Relatively peaceful, this fish coexists quite calmly with neighbors of similar or even larger size. However, it should be noted that small species may be subject to constant attacks. It is important to keep them in a school consisting of at least 6 individuals.

The only, but important, requirement for keeping these fish is maintaining water purity. An effective filter and regular replacement of 25–50% of the water volume every two weeks successfully solve this problem. Technical equipment for the aquarium will require a heater, an aerator, and a filtration system. Since the fish prefer subdued lighting, additional light is not needed if the aquarium is in a living room — the light coming from the room is quite sufficient. For decoration, it is advisable to use low, shade-loving plants that can thrive in low light, planted in groups. Dark fine gravel or coarse sand will work as substrate, and pieces of wood, intertwined roots, or snags can be used for decorative elements.

A wide range of specialized foods is available for Tetras, containing all necessary nutrients, including freeze-dried meat components. The diet can be enriched by adding bloodworms or large daphnia.

Spawning of these fish should be carried out in a specially designated tank, as parents are prone to eating their offspring. A 20 L aquarium will be quite sufficient for spawning. The water composition in it should be as close as possible to the parameters of the water in the main aquarium. Equipment will include a filter, heater, aerator, and, in this case, lighting fixtures. The decor uses groups of low plants and a sandy substrate. Spawning can begin at any time. When the female's belly noticeably increases, it is a signal that the pair should be moved to a separate tank. After some time, the female releases eggs into the water, and the male fertilizes them; the entire process occurs over plant thickets, where the eggs then settle. If the plants are arranged in several groups, the pair can spawn in several areas at once. After spawning, the parents are returned to the community tank. The incubation period lasts about two days. Fry are recommended to be fed powdered foods or Artemia nauplii.

At low water temperatures, fish become more susceptible to skin diseases. Under optimal conditions, health problems usually do not arise, although artificially bred species show less resilience compared to their natural ancestors. More detailed information on symptoms and treatment methods can be found in the “Aquarium Fish Diseases” section.

When choosing individuals in a store, attention should be paid to their activity and fin integrity. A healthy fish should show curiosity, stay in a school, and have no visible damage, sores, or white plaque on its scales. Avoid buying fish that appear sluggish, keep to themselves, or have an unnaturally bloated belly. Pay special attention to the coloration: it should be uniform, without spots that do not match the species standard. Given the species' tendency to nip the fins of tankmates, acquire a group of at least 6 individuals to reduce stress and aggression in the aquarium.